February '13

For the Business of Apparel Decorating

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o Fused Collar: a collar that has gone through a fusing process, in which an adhesive lining is heated between the two pieces of fabric that make up the collar. Fusing prevents puckering, bubbling and wrinkling of cut parts. Cuffs and top-centers can also be fused. There are two types of fusing: Top fused pieces have adhesive lining on one side of the cut fabric that comprises the collar, cuffs or top center; Fully-fused pieces have adhesive lining on both sides of the fabric. o Point Collar: a collar that is pointed versus button down or spread. Point collar styles usually have a narrow opening, with 2.5 to 3.25 inches between the points of the collar, revealing less of the shirt area or a dress tie. o Spread Collar (Cutaway): a collar that has a spread opening (usually about 3.5 to 6 inches apart) which normally does not have a button-down feature, revealing more of the upper shirt area and leaving additional room for larger tie knots such as the Windsor. o Wing Collar: consists of a short shirt collar with no turndown and two small "wings" at the front which are tucked behind a bowtie. D Darts: a tapered tuck stitched in a garment in order to give the fabric shape; different types include back, bust, front, neck and vertical darts. Denim: a firm 2 X 1 or 3 X 1 twill-weave fabric. The hue (dark or light) is determined by how much white filling yarns are blended with colored warp yarns. o Denim: a 3 X 1 twill-weave piece Bull dyed fabric (see entry), made from coarse yarns. Weights can vary from 9 ounces per square yard up to the standard 14 ounces per square yard. o Dry/Raw Denim: denim that has not been processed or washed after being dyed, resulting in a very solid dark coloring and stiff quality. o Open-End Denim: refers to the yarn used to weave the denim; the fibers are pressed into shape, a process known as mock twisting. o Selvage/Selvedge Denim: an edge produced on woven fabric during manufacture that prevents it from unraveling; a type of denim which forms a clean natural edge that does not unravel. o Washed Denim: denim that is washed after being dyed during its production; types include stone (distressed), acid (light, splotchy), garment (softer feel). F Filament: a single fiber that is woven into yarn. Commonly used as a synonym to "yarn" or "fiber." Fill Thread: the crosswise threads on a loom that are passed over and under the warp threads to make fabric (see warp thread). Full Front Button-Front: a woven shirt with a fulllength front opening from the collar to the hem, with buttons lining the opening. Not to be confused with a "button down," which it is commonly, but incorrectly, called (see button down collar). Full Make: fabrics produced on a flat-kitting machine that have been shaped by adding or reducing stitches. Poplin is just one type of fabric used for dress shirts. See glossary for a complete definition. (Image courtesy Dri Duck) 2013 February Printwear PW_FEB13.indd 37 | 37 1/18/13 10:03 AM

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