February '13

For the Business of Apparel Decorating

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WOVENS DICTIONARY H Hand: describes the tactile qualities of a fabric, e.g., softness, firmness, elasticity, fineness, resilience and other qualities perceived by touch. Horn-Tone Buttons: buttons that have the hue/ appearance of natural animal horns. Commonly blends of light and brown shades. O Oxford: a fabric used for shirts, woven in a modified basket-type weave (see basket weave; oxford weave) with a large filling yarn having no twist that is woven under and over two single, twisted warp yarns; used to make garments. Oxford Weave: a weave which that combines two fine filaments (see entry) that are woven together to create a basket weave pattern that is sturdy but still allows the fabric to breathe. Jacquard Oxford Weave: a fabric made on a o special loom called a jacquard loom. The result is an intricate variegated pattern. Pinpoint Oxford Weave: an oxford fabric o woven in a manner where every other warp thread is white and the other is colored, creating a unique pattern that resembles pinpoints. Royal Oxford Weave: two fine yarns paired o together. The weft yarn has one heavier, softly spun fill yarn, which gives the fabric a very subtle basket weave look with a silk-like and lustrous finish. P Piece Dyed Fabric: fabric that is dyed after the yarns are woven (as opposed to fabric woven with pre-dyed yarn or yarn-dyed fabric). Poplin: a plain-woven fabric, typically very lightweight cotton, with a corded surface. o End-on-Poplin: fabric woven in a manner where alternate white and colored threads are used, giving a mottled appearance. More exotic poplin weaves are made by interweaving threads of alternating colors for a visual texture so subtle it appears solid from a distance. The hand of finer weaves are commonly described as "silky poplin." (Note: End-on-End weaves also apply to other fabrics such as broadcloth, not just poplin.) R Ridge Cloth: a fabric that does not lie flat, resulting in a unique tactile and visual effect. It is created by tightening or loosening yarns in either the warp or the fill fibers in the weaving process. Ring Spun: a manner in which fiber is made into yarn, wherein it is spun to remove impurities before it is knitted into fabric, resulting in a finer, smoother consistency. Ring-spun fabrics have a softer hand (see entry) than those made from open-ended or carded cotton. Pearlized Buttons: buttons that have a pearl-like hue. Pinpoint Cotton: part of the oxford family of cotton fabrics, it has an especially lightweight feel and fine texture. Usually comprised of finer yarns that make up the fabric weave, i.e. 60 singles yarn. (Note: the higher the number of singles, the finer the yarn.) 38 | Printwear PW_FEB13.indd 38 S Sanforize: patented mechanical process involving heat and pressure applied to fabrics whereby residual shrinkage is taken out of the fabric. February 2013 1/18/13 10:03 AM

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