Northshore Magazine

Northshore July 2019

Northshore magazine showcases the best that the North Shore of Boston, MA has to offer.

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NORTHSHOREMAG.COM 16 JULY 2019 Grove's mission seems to be to bring the outdoors inside. Even the name evokes a summertime forest, and both the food and the space thrive on the restaurant's Rowley location. Housed in a newly constructed post- and-beam barn whose tall windows let in the views from the natural surroundings, the rustic dining room, painted in shades of taupe and white with a cathedral ceiling, is all about light and air. Meanwhile, chef Ben Lightbody brings the North Shore straight to the table, working with local food purveyors to highlight everything from local clams to the seasonal soup and put- ting a creative spin on whatever is fresh. Light- body grew up in Ipswich, and has developed deep relationships with local farms like Alprilla in Essex and Cedar Rock Garden in Glouces- ter. He expects to change his creative regional menu with the seasons, with specials popping up as the produce does. Unexpected tastes and textures abound in the imaginative menu, starting with the Snacks section—ideal to accompany drinks on the res- taurant's charming patio or to start a meal. The Tator-Tots may seem like a classic bar snack, but Lightbody elevates them, cooking the shredded potatoes low and slow, confit style, THE MENU Appetizers Tator-Tots $5, Cauliflower Salad $13, Smoked Pork Belly $15 Entrées Red Wine Marinated Steak $29 Dessert Strawberry Cheesecake $10 Warm Chocolate Cake $10 E AT + D R I N K Clockwise from left, Cauliflower salad and red wine marinated steak are served in a charming rustic setting. in duck fat before shaping them into cylinders and frying them to order. The outside is crispy, and the inside is creamy. Served with a changing slate of dipping sauces, they are a terrific accom- paniment to a cocktail or local beer. For a unique take on a seasonal starter, try the cauliflower salad. A mix of orange, purple, and white cauliflower and green romanesco,

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