Northshore magazine showcases the best that the North Shore of Boston, MA has to offer.
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NORTHSHOREMAG.COM 16 SEPTEMBER 2019 Some of Danielle Berdahn's favorite childhood memories are of summers frolicking in the Atlantic Ocean at Wingaer- sheek Beach. Her husband, Carlo, grew up near a faraway sea—the Mediterranean, which touches his native North Lebanon. A shared love of food and all its possibilities brought the pair together a decade ago, both as business partners and as a couple. And when the op- portunity appeared to open a second location of their beloved Mediterranean restaurant, Yella (a common Arabic expression meaning "Let's go"), this time with views of Gloucester Harbor, it was hard to resist. Yella on the Water opened this summer with a spacious deck decorated with hand- crafted ottomans and lighting fixtures import- ed from Lebanon, as well as its cozy, convivial interior space. While the menu draws heavily on favorites from Yella Grille (the Andover spot the pair opened in 2009), the sea breezes tickling the deck and the fishermen hauling in their catch less than five minutes up the road have brought some new influences to the menu. Carlo, who oversees the kitchen, has added in more fish options while keeping the Middle Eastern inflection that has made the restaurant's reputation. The basil & mint crab cakes are a perfect example of the new combinations. The crab cakes, which are a staple in Andover, now feature Jonah crab—a locally sourced cousin to Dungeness crab—whenever available. Typi- cally bycatch from lobster traps, Jonah crab is sweet and tender. The bright, light crab cake, served with a pickled fennel and orange salad, is elevated by a yogurt-based dipping sauce flavored with lemony sumac and garlic. The resulting dish is quite different from the clas- sic, in the best possible way. The couple is devoted to offering scratch- made and local fare wherever possible. The yogurt for that dipping sauce is made in- house, as is just about every other condiment, right down to the ketchup. Mint for most of the dishes at both locations comes from the Berdahns' own substantial garden, and spices that aren't available here are imported directly from Lebanon; the couple travels over to select the herbs themselves. THE MENU Appetizers Basil & Mint Crab Cakes $14, Chicken Wings a la Provençal, $9.50 Entrées Pan Seared Sea Scallops $29.50, House Burger $16.50 Dessert Vanilla Crème Fraiche Panna Cotta $9.50,Strawberries & Cream Bread Pudding $10.50 E AT + D R I N K The restaurant overlooks the water in downtown Gloucester. Basil and mint crab cakes. Unique takes on classic dishes abound on the menu—take the chicken wings a la Proven- çal. Crispy, meaty little drumettes and wing- ettes (the parts you get when you cut apart a chicken wing) are bathed in a bright blend of lemon juice, garlic, tomato, and cilantro, rather than a more traditional sweet or spicy sauce, making the dish light and fresh. Similarly, fresh-shucked local scallops take a vacation to the Mediterranean in an entrée that will be familiar to fans of the Andover location. Crusted with imported spices, the shellfish takes on a slightly peppery heat, balancing its natural sweetness. Served with sautéed brussels sprouts, toasted nuts, and a wild mushroom coulis, the dish is a terrific bridge from summer to fall. Chef Carlo gets a text every day from the local fishermen, letting him know the day's haul. To take advantage of this timely infor- mation, Yella runs specials most nights, and has also added the Fisherman's Catch of the Day, a changing selection of fish rubbed with Za'atar—a blend of sesame seeds, sumac, thyme, and other aromatic spices. Looking for something heartier? Many of the favorites from the Andover location have traveled east, including the butcher's choice grilled steak and the braised lamb shank, served with couscous, roasted vegetables,