Northshore Magazine

Northshore November 2019

Northshore magazine showcases the best that the North Shore of Boston, MA has to offer.

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NORTHSHOREMAG.COM 18 NOVEMBER 2019 has locations around the world, the earthy mellow seasoning, poured tableside from a special decanter, is subtle and slightly thick, enhancing the flavor of the pristine fish. It is accompanied by fresh wasabi, grated tableside. The green root bears little resemblance to the wasabi paste found in most Japanese restaurants—rather than just smacking you with spice, it has layers of flavor, from fruity to floral, complementing the heat. Cooked dishes are equally thoughtful. A pair of large grilled scallops are plump and sweet, grilled to perfection on the robata, then topped with spicy mentaiko butter made from fish roe. The signature black cod dish—a classic for nearly 20 years—lives up to the hype. Moist, rich, and slightly sweet, it is marinated in a saikyo miso paste crafted just for Zuma and flown in regularly from Japan. The beef tenderloin from the robata grill is tender but pretty spicy with red chili and sweet soy. Try to save room for dessert, The Zuma Deluxe Dessert Platter comes laden with house-made sorbet, squares of yuzu scented cheese cake, exotic fruits and a black sesame cookie that looks for all the world like a hunk of lava rock. As if all that wasn't enough, a circle of buttery molten chocolate cake finishes the plate. Sure, you've seen it before, but quite possibly never this good. Zuma sits on the second floor of the new Four Seasons Hotel One Dalton Street, which is shoehorned into an improbable space CONTACT Four Seasons Hotel One Dalton Street, Boston, 857-449-2500, zumarestaurant.com/locations/boston E AT + D R I N K Clockwise from above, green tea banana cake with coconut ice cream and peanut toffee sauce, a craft cocktail, and informal bar seating. between the Christian Science Center and the Prudential building in the Back Bay. It is the 12th Japanese izakaya in the illustrious group; other locations include Abu Dhabi, Las Vegas, New York and London, where the first branch opened in 2002. That might explain the spot's early aughts vibe. At a time when many area chefs are stepping away from fine dining in favor of more casual eateries, Zuma leans into luxury, with a head-spinning number of people at- tending your table ensuring water glasses are full, napkins are correct, and the proper sauce accompanies each dish. The service is attentive, but never cloying. Consistency is a hallmark of Zuma—you know what to expect, whether you're in Abu Dhabi or Boston—and that's a good thing. PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ZUMA, BY JAMES SHEARE (INTERIOR)

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