ne
Vanity Fare
Clockwise from top,
Blueberry Bread
Pudding, Pan Fried
Haddock Cakes,
Pork, Pork, Pork.
Food
to experience their new spin on the dish.
It features an amazingly flavorful housemade bacon and half of a hard-boiled egg
white filled with tomato jam, served aside
grilled lettuce set atop a generous smear
of seasoned deviled egg filling.
Next, the Pan Fried Haddock Cakes appetizer, a tasty concoction prepared like a classic
brandade in which salted codfish is forkmashed together with new potatoes, garlic,
and Asian seasoning, formed into pankocoated patties, and sautéed until crispy.
The Duet of Natural Game Hen
entrée is thus named for the two cooking methods used. The sweet, tender
breast meat is first brined with lemon
and rosemary, then grilled to order. The
legs and thighs are cooked à la confit,
(slowly braised in hot duck fat), then
quickly deep fried just before plating
for a crunchy, satisfying texture.
The Pork, Pork, Pork entrée comprises
three distinct preparations of pork, creating an undeniable taste frenzy. The most
prominent cut on the plate is the buttery,
melt-in-your-mouth pork butt that is
grilled, then braised in a Moxie barbecue
sauce. Add to that flash-fried confit of pork
belly and cured pork sautéed with Tuscan
kale and mustard and you have a truly
intoxicating combo.
For dessert, we chose a long-standing
favorite of the regular Wild Horse crowd,
Hunka Hunka Chocolate Cake, as well
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as their own homemade-style blueberry bread pudding made with brioche,
creamy egg custard, Maine blueberries,
and caramel sauce.
Hats off to Hunt and Blanchard for
reinventing this venerable neighborhood
institution while deftly preserving the best
of the Wild Horse Café tradition.
The Menu
Chef/Co-Owner: Sam Hunt. Appetizers:
Bacon and Egg Salad ($9), Pan Fried Haddock
Cakes ($11). Entrées: Duet of All Natural Game
Hen ($21), Pork, Pork, Pork ($19). Desserts:
Hunka Hunka Chocolate Cake ($9), Blueberry
Bread Pudding ($7). Location: 392 Cabot Street,
Beverly, 978-922-6868, wildhorsecafe.com
photographs by anthony tieuli
3/22/13 1:30 PM
