Northshore magazine showcases the best that the North Shore of Boston, MA has to offer.
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NORTHSHOREMAG.COM 24 OCTOBER 2020 normally enjoy these breweries has changed, at least the spirit hasn't. And then there's the food, which for Olive, Rogers, and Cass still comes down to the classic combination of pretzels and beer. "If you want the true Notch experience, it would be to come in and get the standard, which is our Czech Pils, then a German soft pretzel," Olive says. For Oak & Iron, Cass says, "Our top sellers include our charcuterie board, spinich dip, and Bavarian pretzels," which go well with every single beer they have on tap. Rogers has a specific recommendation in mind for anyone unafraid of big, roasty stouts, which is True North's contribution to the Black Is Beautiful initiative—a cause taken up by over a dozen Massachusetts breweries that is intended to raise funds toward eradicating systemic racism. True North's variation on this beer is brewed with Tahitian vanilla beans and cocoa nibs, and that bittersweet flavor profile contrasts nicely with the saltiness of, once again, a warm, soft pretzel. Not everyone will feel comfortable visiting breweries in person, of course, regardless of what's on tap or what's on the menu. But Notch, True North, and Oak & Iron each demonstrate that running a brewery is possible during COVID-19, no matter how much legislation is written that impacts the way they function. "Hanging in for the long haul is what we plan on doing," says Olive, adding that "we're going to hold out, and then just be as safe as we can." CONTACT notchbrewing.com, truenorthales.com, oakandironbrewing.com E AT + D R I N K more or less smooth, the actual logistics of adhering to the state's guidelines have been a bit more challenging. Providing food service at a brewery, where food service isn't unheard of but also isn't the primary purpose, becomes more difficult when it's a requirement. "Since every customer, or at least every group, has to order something to share or get something individually, the volume is two, three times the amount of food we were doing before, in a time where we are trying to keep costs to a minimum," Olive says. Labor costs have gone up since the passing of the new law, a reality compounded by the size of Notch's kitchen and the need to keep their staff safe. Unsurprisingly, Rogers and Cass share stories similar to Olive's. "When it's mandated that you can't have a drink unless you're going to also have food, then that means that we have to have additional staff," Rogers also notes. More people are needed to prepare soft pretzels from Eastern Standard Provisions and gourmet mustards from Wicked Twisted Pretzels. Cass agrees that "operations and staffing have been a huge challenge for us. If you think about it, we'd normally run our food service sometimes with one person on a Thursday, and Saturday we'd probably have two people running our food service. Now we've doubled our food service." Worse, Olive, Rogers, and Cass had only a week to make the necessary changes on their end, as the updated standards for opening brewery doors were communicated on August 7—less than a week before they went into effect. Keeping a brewery running under these conditions sounds nearly impossible, with the latest guidance feeling like one hurdle too many. But Notch, True North, and Oak & Iron are making it work. "We have an official slogan, basically for 2020, at Notch," Olive says, "and it's called 'We're doing the best we can.'" Neither Rogers nor Cass has a new slogan of their own, but they're following the Notch philosophy simply by staying the course and adapting to new laws as they're announced. Nobody blames the government; they're each keeping politics out of their policy as much as they can. The heart of beer culture isn't about grievance; it's about community. "People come there, first of all, to sit down and to relax and to spend some time with family and friends," Rogers says. The biggest difference between now and pre-COVID-19 is that before, people could engage with folks at other tables, catch up with friends or make new ones—though perhaps they can still do so from the proper distance. If the way they Notch Beer Garden offers the perfect spot to indulge in an ale and a warm pretzel. True North offers a variety of interesting flavors on their beer menu.