January/February 2021

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36 / JANUARY.FEBRUARY.2021 USICERINKS.COM by CASEY MURDOUGH, CIRM STEP 1 First things first, the bubbling paint and rust need to be removed to get the area back down to clean, bare metal. If you just repaint over the rust, the paint will come right back off—and quickly. The best way to remove the paint and rust is by using either a wire wheel or a sanding disc on a drill or grinder. Clean the whole area of rust and continue to clean just a little bit wider around the affected area, into the non-rusted metal. After utilizing a piece of 220-grit sandpaper to roughen up the surrounding good paint, wipe down the area with some acetone on a rag to fully clean off any dust, grease or grime. Remember to wear proper personal protective equipment. HOW To Repainting Ice Resurfacers PHOTOS: COURTESY OF CASEY MURDOUGH IF YOU JUST REPAINT OVER THE RUST, THE PAINT WILL COME RIGHT BACK OFF—AND QUICKLY. STEP 4 Surface prep for the final layers of paint is the most important step. With the filler sanded down, do a final sanding with 400- grit sandpaper or a red scuff pad to make the surface nice and smooth. Next, repeat the same surface prep from Step 2. Mask off what you don't want to paint, surface-wipe with acetone, and then apply a coat of the self-etching primer. STEP 2 With the area clean, mask and tape off any paint that you want to preserve. At the local parts store you can grab a can of "self- etching" automotive primer. Use this to spray a light coat onto the bare metal. The primer should stop the rust from coming right back. STEP 3 Now, because you removed the factory layers of paint, you need to build the surface back up. Use an automotive filler or glaze, also available at your local parts store. This is a two-part process. Follow the directions for mixing, and then apply a light, smooth layer over the rough area of the repair. The less filler you use, the better, because you will have to finish sanding either by hand (recommended) or with a sander after it hardens. The key to this step is taking your time on sanding. You want to remove just enough filler to feather the edges and make the repair feel smooth, like the rust was never there. STEP 5 The top coat is your finished product. Depending on the color of your machine or panel, you might get lucky by closely matching a can of spray paint locally. If not, you will need to utilize the factory touch-up paint with a sprayer. With the red scuff pad, sand down the top coat of primer just enough to take off any small imperfections to make the surface glassy smooth. Follow that with a quick wipe of acetone on a rag to remove any dust made from the scuffing. Finally, spray your top coat in two or three light coats to avoid any drips or runs. SAFETY NOTE: As with any paint project, big or small, be sure to wear all the essential personal protective equipment and paint in a well-ventilated area. Be sure to allow enough time between layers of paint or filler for the product to set up and dry. Take your time and keep surfaces clean, and you can spot-paint over any rust bubbles on your machine. J Casey Murdough is the Assistant Facilities Manager at The St. James in Springfield, Va.

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