ne
Food
artisan
Mozzarella Man
After a year's hiatus, cheesemaker Luca Mignogna
is back—and, he hopes, bigger than before.
By Calvin Hennick
it's luca mignogna's third day of making cheese at his new facility in Amesbury,
and raw milk is spraying everywhere.
He frantically fiddles with tubes and
metal connectors, barking instructions—
in Italian, through a PVC pipe—to his
business partner, Leonardo, who is outside working to pump the milk in from the
truck. After a few false starts, they get the
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KJ JanFeb14 Cheese.indd 24
milk into the hundred-gallon pasteurizer,
and the cheese-making process begins.
"Now you see why the floor always
needs to be wet," Mignogna says, gesturing to the little lakes of water dotting
the tile, waiting to be squeegeed into the
drain at the center of the room. "We cannot worry about the splash. Otherwise,
you get crazy about everything."
Say Cheese: Luca Mignogna custom crafts his cheese.
photographs by fawn deviney
11/22/13 1:41 PM