2014 Resource Directory

For the Business of Apparel Decorating

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20 1 4 M i d - M a rc h Printwear | 31 10mm or more in width are likely to become too wide to be cleanly stitched when up-scaled. They can sometimes be converted to split satins when that look is acceptable, but they otherwise become loopy and easily snagged in the finished piece. Moreover, if they are larger than 12mm in width, they will cause your machine to execute a double cycle, making each long stitch take twice as long on your machine—longer, even, than the slower speeds associated with the wider satin stitches present in many designs. If we are forced to size a design with very large satins, we can utilize split satin stitches to make a smoother finish than a tatami fill, while maintaining a great deal of the shine and textural dimension of the standard satin stitch. Tiny or overly long manual stitches: Unlike a condensed straight stitch, the penetration points on these are set, and the length of the stitches between them changes with scaling. Scale too small and you'll have thread breaks, scale too large and the design looks cheap. Overly small gaps/spaces: When down-scaling, it's easy to see that lettering or other elements without sufficient spacing will eventually collapse and edges will close up, lapping over each other. If your gaps are so thin that they depend on the needle tracking to the right side of a thread in the weave of your substrate to stay intact, you'll have an uneven execution from garment to garment. red flags In designs that have a great number of simple fills as well as satin borders and details, you may find that much of it can be reused in a scaled design. I've recreated either reduced or increased detail versions of straight-stitch shading, as well as details atop scaled fills from an original design many times. That said, you always run the risk of having created something that doesn't translate. Certainly, i t's t r u e t h a t fine up-scaled points become large and blunt, but with minor alteration they can be fixed. Also, the small flaws that were forgivable in a left-chest design are entirely hideous if simply scaled up for a jacket back, even if basic stitch lengths and overlaps remain viable. Keyboarded type is another false friend here—while most of it will hold up to minor scaling, even the finest alphabets may be rough-looking at large sizes, sporting mismatched overlaps, unmatched joints, and awkward angles that might be passable in tiny lettering. pw PW_MidMarch14.indd 31 2/28/14 1:07 PM

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