Northshore magazine showcases the best that the North Shore of Boston, MA has to offer.
Issue link: http://read.uberflip.com/i/410828
24 nshoremag.com December 2014 photographs by darren pellegrino Food ne eclectic can sometimes mean out of control. A dash of whimsy can quickly become a cavalcade of jarring design experiences and uneven food and drink offerings. That makes The Bancroft all the more impressive—at this new Burlington steak house, serious food and a touch of eccentricity work in perfect harmony. The menu features a roster of Third Avenue Colorado lamb chop; Right, the dining room review Choice Chophouse The Bancroft sets the traditional steak house on its ear. By Jeanne O'Brien Coffey classically prepared beef dishes along- side plates that draw culinary influences from around the world. The posh décor features mismatched furniture, from custom-made plush banquettes to chairs wrapped in cowhide. Even the floors are a patchwork of different materials, from tile to throw rugs to dark wood. But ev- erything works together to create a warm, sophisticated experience that leaves diners plotting a return trip. While The Bancroft does offer tradi- tional steak house staples, like a whop- ping 40-ounce Tomahawk Rib Steak for two, along with sides like garlic mashed potatoes and creamed spinach, the sophisticated touch of executive chef Mario Capone, whose impressive career includes cooking in the kitchens of Lydia Shire and Daniel Boulud, lightens and modernizes the classics while broad- ening the offerings. Take the Mexican influence in the skirt steak with grilled avocado. The tender, perfectly cooked beef is sauced with chipotle butter, which adds subtle heat without overwhelming the dish. Topped with half an avocado, it is a 3-D work of art. Drawing from the other side of the world, the Middle East- ern flavors that enhance grilled Colo- rado lamb chops are satisfying on a cold winter night, yet lightened by fresh mint yogurt sauce. The well-trained servers can offer interesting tidbits about the dishes, along with knowledgeable descriptions and excellent pairing suggestions. The thoughtful wine list features brief, evoca- tive descriptions of each wine, making it