December '14

For the Business of Apparel Decorating

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20 1 4 D EC E M B E R PRINTWEAR | 61 Removal and restitching is also an op- tion if the fabric is forgiving or the design is made of easily removed elements, such as large satin stitches. The removal pro- cess is all about slicing through stitches. Electric shaver-like devices with custom ground blades are sometimes used, but I favor a more manual, controlled approach. Depending on the kind of stitching, any number of seam rippers, scalpels, and blades can do the job. Start shallow and cut carefully from the back side to keep the edge parallel to the backing's surface. Slice through the bobbin stitching and occasionally scratch at the topstitching with a fingernail or tug carefully with tweezers as it loosens. Try not to damage the backing, which prevents cutting through to the garment. Don't pull too hard or put too much tension on the garment to avoid small holes or tears during the removal process. Steam the garment after carefully removing the stitching and freeing the original stabilizer to relax the fabric. Then check for visible holes and flaws. If the remaining garment quality is good enough to reuse or your replacement design covers any small flaws, continue to the restitching process. Restitching is half careful hooping and half design preparation. Replacing a design in the same area as the offending embroidery requires straight hooping and precise needle Above: This garment came to us as a special request from a customer. It was a vintage garment from a famous film-service tack company. The customer tried to remove the name, but holes appeared in the lining. Rather than removing the sparse lettering, we took a rare approach and directly covered the name with a field of matched col- or thread, using a shape that matched the style of the current decoration and the space at hand. (Image courtesy Erich Campbell) Above right: For a logo with a large background in a single color, an appliqué can often replace any fill. When cover- ing damaged embroidery, the logo design is run on appliqué material and adhered and stitched down with a full-satin edge, as seen here. Any embroidery or small amounts of damage beneath the appliqué has no effect on the final look. (Image courtesy Celeste Schwartz) Right: Some designs are easily fixed with stitch remov- al and embroidery replacement. This fix is for a memorial blanket. Its felt-like fabric left almost no scarring on removal of the erroneous number that was incorrectly entered and signed off on by the customer. This "8" was dropped in place easily. The starting point was set to a junction where satin stitches meet to give the most precise point to start the needle. With careful, straight hooping and proper mea- surements, the one-of-a-kind blanket was saved. (Image courtesy Erich Campbell)

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