Untacked

c h r o n o f h o r s e . c o m ja n ua r y/ f e b r ua r y 2 015 81 ernest hemingway once wrote. at feeling still rings true for many visitors to Kenya's maasai mara national reserve, which has often been hailed as the wildlife mecca of the world. located in eastern Africa, it is the northern extension of the serengeti ecosystem and hosts a fantastic population of wil- debeest and zebra referred to colloqui- ally as "the migration." By conservative estimates, 1.5 million of the former and 250,000 of the latter roam throughout the area in search of grass produced by its seasonal rains. witnessing this marvel from the back of a horse is a life-changing experi- ence i've been fortunate enough to enjoy a few times over the past 20 years, and it never grows less magical. e maasai mara plains are also home to elephants, hippos, giraffes, Cape buffalo, a wide variety of antelopes and primates, and last but not least, the predators. lions, leopards, cheetahs, hyenas and jackals are all common sights on early-morning rides and nighttime drives. off beat safaris, a company based in nairobi that will celebrate its 25th year of operation in January, leads eight-day riding adventures assisted by local maa- sai guides. mounted on sturdy or- oughbreds and polo ponies, riders have plenty of chances to enjoy long canters as they move between four different camp- sites throughout the week. ese trips are not for the cautious— they're for real riders who can gallop comfortably and react quickly and safely and be comfortable in the saddle for four to six hours a day. But if you're a thrill seeker in search of a once-in-a-lifetime experience, seeing east Africa's amazing wildlife from the back of a horse is it. The moment we cross into these giraffes' comfort zone, they break elegantly into their sur- real, slow-motion canter across the endless plains. "i neVer Knew of A morning in AfriCA when i woKe up And wAs not hAppY,"

• Cover