Northshore Magazine

May / June 2015

Northshore magazine showcases the best that the North Shore of Boston, MA has to offer.

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184 Scott Rowe has been on the farm for three years tending to the Jersey herd that grazes in the meadows of Appleton Farms—today there are 19 in total. Rowe explains that the Jersey cows produce the highest butterfat content, which gives Can- telmo's Sunset Hill, a triple cream Camembert-style cheese, its rich buttery flavor. "This cheese is what Jersey cows were put on this earth for," smiles Cantelmo. Jersey cows are also integral to the history of this 300-plus-year-old farm. In the 19th century, the Appletons brought Jersey cows to this county from England. In 1893, a heifer from that first herd was exhibited at the World's Columbian Exhibition for yielding the record, up to that time, for the highest amount of butter produced in a single year by one cow—945 pounds, 9 ounces. In 2011, Appleton Farms restored and rebuilt the dairy barn, milk - ing stalls, and creamery needed to reintroduce dairy farming back to Appleton. The Trustees of Reserva- tions (the organization that runs Appleton) also installed a pipeline to transfer raw milk from the bulk tank to the pasteurizers, as well as a butter churn, yogurt filler, and three refrigerated rooms for aging cheese. Every morning, well before the sun peeks over the horizon, Rowe is on his way to milk the cows. His weathered and chafed hands speak volumes about the labor-intensive work of tending the herd, which produces just over 800 gallons of milk a week. (Their second milking of the day is at 2 p.m.) Rowe has been working as a dairy farmer for 15 years. He does not use antibiotics on the animals, CONTACT Appleton Farms 219 County Rd. Ipswich 978-356-5728 thetrustees.org and the farmers tending the grass and hay fields use organic practices. "The cows are well cared for with low stress," says Rowe. These brown- eyed creatures—each with a sweet name like Button or Daisy—are clearly loved: His philosophy is to give his cows the best life possible and a respectful death. He does not push for the most milk production but rather provides more targeted care. "Our cows continue to produce milk even after seven years when institutional farm cows might stop milking after two years," he says. "The old ways of farming are not working. What The Trustees are do- ing is the future of the New England farm—creating a local, sustainable model is going to be the driver." And with the fruits of his labor producing such delicious, local dairy offerings, I couldn't agree more. Wonderful Wedges A sampling of cheeses from Appleton Farms BROAD MEADOW Aged six to eight months, Broad Meadow is a semi- hard cheese with a rich yellow color that comes from the high-quality pasture on which the Jersey cows graze. This cheese is bright and slightly tangy up front with a nutty finish. PINNACLE A simple farmhouse cheese much like Havarti, Pinna- cle has a smooth, supple texture and notes of butter and grass. It's great on sandwiches or with fruit and wine. Cantelmo also offers two additional flavors in her Pinnacle cheese: dill and hot pepper. GOODHUE A rich and flavorful hard cheese aged nine months, Goodhue is perfect on a burger, but can stand alone on any cheese plate. This is the newest cheese in Cantelmo's line. SUNSET HILL Similar to a Camembert or Brie, Sunset Hill has a pure-white rind and soft, almost oozy interior. Smear this buttery cheese on a baguette or cracker, pour yourself a glass of your favorite wine, and enjoy.

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