Northshore Magazine

May / June 2015

Northshore magazine showcases the best that the North Shore of Boston, MA has to offer.

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Page 209 of 244

207 Lucia (the restaurant's namesake), to my youngest son." Nearly every item on the menu has a story, from the Vitello Brac- ciolettine to the Torta Nocciola, a hazelnut cake made from a recipe Frattaroli's sister picked up at a cooking school in Italy 25 years ago. Regulars know the Pasta alla Chitarra is close to the family's hearts—the handmade spaghetti, named for the guitar-like gadget used to cut the long, thick noodles, was a staple of Frattaroli's youth. Rustic yet elegant, the toothsome pasta is served with a fresh, light tomato sauce or topped with a decadent combination of wild mushrooms and white truffle oil. The menu may appear to be unchanged, but the arrival of chef Pino Maffeo a few years back brought new energy to the cuisine. Maffeo is unassuming, preferring to let the restaurant's tradition and recipes take center stage, but in subtle ways, and through nightly specials, he has made his mark. Perhaps some sauces are a bit light - er to accommodate delicate palates, and more ingredients are organic, quietly attracting new fans without upsetting the stalwarts. "We try to keep the menu as consistent as possible to provide our guests a level of familiarity," Frat- taroli says. "The long-term success of the Winchester location is really all about time spent there and creat- ing strong relationships with all of our patrons. Winchester is a won- derful, tight-knit community—being a part of that is really special." With only 19 years in business, Periwinkles could be considered a new kid on the North Shore block. After all, neighboring establish- ments along its scenic stretch of Route 133 date back before World War II. But the building housing Periwinkles, set on a beautiful inlet on the Essex River, has been welcoming people for a meal for nearly half a century. And owner Tom Guertner has worked in the restaurant business in Essex almost continuously since 1981. Word traveled quickly when the spot dug out from mountains of snow to open for the season the first weekend in March. Locals tired of the dregs of winter lined up to grab a reminder of summer and a seat in the cheery space, high- lighted by large windows, white beadboard-covered walls, and a gallery of local artwork. The white tablecloths and china and an upscale menu set Periwin- kles apart from the clam shacks Top to bottom from above, Lucia owner Donato Frattaroli; a house specialty— veal carrozella; The Lucia interior is decorated with murals. Opposite page, Scenes of a Saturday night at The Grog

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