June '15

For the Business of Apparel Decorating

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58 || P R I N T W E A R J U N E 2 0 1 5 THREAD ... ACCORDING TO ED Embroidery Business • Reverse appliqué: Reverse appliqué is a process where the ap- pliqué material is sandwiched between the backing and the garment. The actual garment is cut out and leaves the appliqué exposed for a unique effect. This process requires either a la- ser to cut the garment or hand cutting. If hand cut, the tools required are a pair of scissors and a tremendous amount of patience. • Distressed appliqué: In today's market, distress is king. The more distressed a material, the more popular the end result. With a distressed appliqué, edges are frayed and chunks are often missing. Just about every major clothing supplier for the teen market devotes a significant portion of its product line to distressed appliqué. Washing the garment after embroidery can also help in creating the distressed look. Using a laser for dis- tressed appliqué is an advantage as the laser can cut through the majority of the appliqué but not all of it. This results in fraying when the appliqué material is pulled the rest of the way. • Multilayered appliqué: Multilayered appliqué adds a new di- mension to an otherwise flat process. Combining felt or other material with an appliqué material lifts the material off the fab- ric and creates a design that pops off the garment. This process that specializes in appliqué services, and it will typically provide the exact material. Once you receive the cut pieces, simply incorporate them into the production process. These companies also supply the embroidery file, which further simplifies the process. The only difference in these methods of applying the material is that after the trace stitch is sewn, the cut piece of material fits like a puzzle piece around the outline of the trace stitch. In addition to simply using appliqué as part of the production process, there are many ways to add creativity to the appliqué pro- cess to enhance the perceived value. Advancements in technology have spawned a new generation of appliqué cutting by integrat- ing a laser on the embroidery machine. With the laser on the em- broidery machine, material is placed on the garment, and then a tack-down stitch is applied. Once the tack-down stitch holds the material in place, the laser cuts the material without harming the garment. CREATIVE USES Appliqué also gives embroiderers the chance to expand their cre- ativity. Here are some great examples of how to be creative with appliqué. Choose a fabric from a local fabric store for a unique look, which gives you a competitive edge. Multilayered appliqué adds a new dimension to an otherwise flat process. Combining felt or another material with an appliqué lifts the material off the fabric and creates a design that pops off the garment. Hats are often overlooked for appliqué because the movement of the cap makes them problematic. Despite this, a properly hooped hat with the right type of appliqué can be an easy process.

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