THE SHOP

Performance & Hotrod Business - July '15

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74 n Performance & Hotrod Business n July 2015 The welding points along the edges of the roof are taped off and the roof frame- work is painted with POR-15 Rust Preventive paint, which will help fight the rust and keep it from advancing. At this point we replace the quarter panels on the car, but you don't have to replace quarters to change a roof. Just weld the new roof to the existing quarters. Terry and David set the new Dynacorn replacement roof in place and take the measurements, comparing to the original. They are pretty close and everything is lining up nicely. The roof is clamped in place at the A-pillars, the rear window sides and along the drip rails using the quarter-inch wooden dowels and welding clamps. The quarter-inch dowel rod was cut into 2-1/2- and 1-1/2-inch pieces. Next they dry-fit the roof, making any needed adjustments. David drills a hole at both corners of the windshield just inboard of the A-pillar. These holes will go through both the roof and the windshield frame below and will be used to help align the roof. The roof is then removed from the car and plug weld holes are drilled into the roof along the windshield and rear window flanges. Now comes the tricky part—panel-bonding the roof in place. All the tools and materials must be lined up and ready to use. The welding clamps are adjusted for the needed widths, and dowels are laid out and ready to clamp in place with minimal time spent. With the roof off the car, David runs a narrow bead of Evercoat 6030 Panel Bond 30 just inboard of the drip rail. Note how any paint has been sanded away from that area and the metal has been cleaned with thinner. Next comes plug welding the front, back and sail panels. Using a Millermatic 211 MIG welder, I weld the plug welds. To minimize any metal distortion, I do one weld, then move to a different area of the roof, allowing that area to cool before doing any welds near it. For example, do one weld at the right side of the wind- shield, then move to the left, weld a plug, then repeat that on the rear window area. While I'm welding, Terry uses the hammer and chisel to push the metal down firmly in place against the framework below. The plug welds on the sail panels are MIG welded, but I'm now TIG welding the seams using a Miller Electric 180 Diversion TIG welder. I'm doing very small stitches, no more than a ½-inch at one time, allowing each weld to completely cool before doing another one. It's so tempting to weld it all up or use the wet rag method to cool each weld as you go. But there is far less metal distortion when the welds cool down on their own. And that means less time spent on bodywork. HOTROD

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