Northshore magazine showcases the best that the North Shore of Boston, MA has to offer.
Issue link: http://read.uberflip.com/i/54815
ne Food Best Dishes: Clockwise from top left, roasted tomato soup; fried apple turnovers; and gnocchi with lobster and watercress. with house-made pickles and plump, honey-baked cannelloni beans—a fabulous combination of sweet, sour, and umami. The smooth roasted tomato soup, made with caramelized tomatoes stewed with the rind of a good Parmigiano Reggiano, is mildly tart and totally refreshing. For the first entrée, the excellent Chick- en Under a Brick, served with herb-infused stuffing and kale, is made with free-range chicken cooked in a skillet under a 20- pound weight. This ensures even cooking and a well-crisped skin. The second entrée, homemade gnocchi with lobster and watercress, although tasty and featuring a generous portion of lobster, had too much sauce, while the gnocchi lacked the light texture that defines it. 16 nshoremag.com March/April 2012 For dessert, maple pudding, flavored with maple syrup that was reduced by half to max out the flavor, recalls the luxurious texture of a crème brûlée. We also tried the fried apple turnover, a tasty little nugget chock full of sweet apple, pear, and raisins and topped with a salted caramel sauce and a thick dollop of whipped cream. Owners Dave and Mary Reilly's mission is to introduce diners to authentic dishes from Northern Italy and, when necessary, adapt them to the ingredients available in New England. The result is unfussy, rustic cuisine with bold, clean flavors. While they are both refugees from the business world, at least Dave has the restaurant business in his bloodline: his long-retired grandmother lived in the household where he grew up, and shared her stories, recipes, and passion for food with the young Dave. Mary, on the other hand, taught herself to cook and bake, which eventually led to a stint in catering. For her, this restaurant is about her deep love for food—and making sure she puts some of it on every plate. The Menu Chef: Mary Reilly. Appetizers: Sauteed Mush- rooms with Polenta ($11), Braised Pork Belly ($9). Soup: Roasted Tomato ($6). Entrees: Chicken Under a Brick, ($28), Gnocchi with Lobster & Watercress ($29). Dessert: Maple Pudding, ($9). Location: 50 Water Street, Newburyport, 978- 462-1801, enzo-restaurant.com. photographs by anthony tieuli