September '15

For the Business of Apparel Decorating

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2 0 1 5 S E P T E M B E R P R I N T W E A R || 61 IN-HOOP APPLIQUÉ Second only to pre-cut pieces for ease and simplicity is the in-hoop method. With this technique, all of the cutting is done manu- ally, which makes it more time-consuming than pre-cut or machine-cut appliqué. It does, however, somewhat make up for this hand-work as it requires less advance prepa- ration, and allows for less precise placement. For in-hoop appliqué, the standard ap- pliqué design that would usually consist of a placement line, tack-down stitch, and edge-covering satin, has an added 'cut line' inserted into the sequence after the place- ment run. To achieve this method, you hoop the garment of choice, run the place- ment line, lay a piece of fabric larger than the finished appliqué over the placement line, and then run the 'cut-line'. This tacks the fabric down and provides a line against which to cut away the excess fabric. At this point, the hoop is carefully removed from the machine, excess material outside the cut line is carefully trimmed away—preferen- tially with a specialty appliqué scissor that allows for a close, flat cut without endanger- ing the garment—and the hoop is returned to the machine so that the rest of the design and the edge-covering stitch can be com- pleted. This method is exceedingly simple, but does require labor-intensive, and thus costly, hand-cutting. FAUX APPLIQUÉ Much like the in-hoop method, a faux-ap- pliqué effect can be achieved with heat- press printing materials. In this method, you run the ever-present placement stitch line, place a piece of heat-press printing film large enough to cover the appliqué area that has been removed from its carrier sheet over the placement line, lightly adhering it with a quick spray of embroidery-appropriate spray adhesive. After which, the remain- der of the design is run normally, with the edge of the appliqué area comprised of a full-density satin stitch. This heat-printing Top: With the appliqué trimmed, the hoop is remounted on the machine and the inner details and border are stitched, finishing with the full-satin edging on the appliqué. (Image courtesy Erich Campbell) Above: This simple method offers a stunning finish and adds immense value with a very low-stitch count to a single-color embroidery that benefits greatly from the de- tails in the printed appliqué. (Image courtesy Erich Campbell)

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