September '15

For the Business of Apparel Decorating

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68 || P R I N T W E A R S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 EMBROIDERY BUSINESS Take care not to make any satin stitch too narrow as it may not catch the appli- qué adequately. Also be sure not to make it too wide, as the stitches can snag when it is worn. If your appliqué has more than one area, consider using different edge-fin- ishing techniques to add visual interest to the design. Appliqué can be an exciting shortcut to a change in color and texture. Consider holographic fabrics which can be dynamic, especially when stitched with metallic or novelty threads. Try the metallic-like mylar, a strong, thin fabric that comes in many colors. Cover it with an all-over low density fill to create the illusion of metallic thread. With this net of stitches across the face of the appliqué you can create the illusion of yet another change. A web of blue stitches across a yellow fabric will whisper green to the eye. You can also use fleece for appli- qué which can be culled from any unfixable errors. Instead of tone-on-tone it will be a fabric-on-fabric variation. Terry cloth can create a chenille effect. Also consider the use of textured fabrics such as lace to spice up a design. Try a fabric that unravels around the edge for a fringe effect. Picture a golden sun created that way, with perhaps some golden rays stitched in metallic thread before the appliqué is ap- plied. Clear vinyl can be used as an appli- qué as well. Small flat charms or souvenirs can be placed under the vinyl to fashion a wine glass or flower vase. Create a grand- mother's shirt using one of the print or transfer methods for the portrait and then cover with vinyl for a glass effect and use a CONSIDERATIONS FOR APPLIQUÉ • Be sure to consider the laundering requirements of any added fabric when planning your appliqué. Placing dry clean only fabric on a washable shirt will create unhappy customers on washday. • Preshrink any fabrics made of natural fibers and add the care of the appliqué fabric, if different from the main product, to any hangtag. • After pre-washing, add medium-weight fusible interfacing to any fabric that puckers easily. This will prevent frayed edges and unraveling as well as add stability. • Use a heat press to nail down the completed appliqué to ensure that all parts are securely bonded. Consider the fabric before you press. Some synthetics have a low melt point. Press napped, ridged, and piled fabrics on the wrong side to avoid heat on synthetic products. • When using glossy nylon fabric, pre-wash and iron it as it will not work well with adhe- sive sprays if it has been pre-treated with oily lubricants. • A wood-burning pencil or slender soldering iron will cut synthetics and seal the edges at the same time. • Eliminate satin borders in any area that will be covered by additional designs or over- lap. This will reduce stitch count and save time. • Remember that the appliqué piece is a backing of sorts. It can sometimes act as the backing, but take the fabric into account when adding any extra backing. • Do your homework when you price appliqué. What is saved in stitches is spent in de- signing the piece and the labor involved. Charge for time and expertise.

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