Northshore magazine showcases the best that the North Shore of Boston, MA has to offer.
Issue link: http://read.uberflip.com/i/589641
30 | NOVEMBER 2015 nshoremag.com When chef Matthew Morello and his wife, Alison Sudalter-Morello, go out to dinner, they always gravitate toward oyster bars, enjoying the complexity of different shellfish and the casual approach to fine dining. So it seemed only natural that when contemplating a new concept for their five-year-old Andover restaurant, Brasserie 28, oysters were top of mind. Literally overnight, the former French bistro transformed into Elm Square Oyster Co. Over a span of 30 hours, the walls were painted in soothing shades of periwinkle blue, reminiscent of the sea, and the counter at the open kitchen was transformed into a sleek stainless steel shucking station. And it's gotten plenty of use—with- in six weeks of opening, Elm Square had already served more than 70,000 oysters on the half shell. It is clear that Morello and his staff have an abiding love for these briny tidbits— the raw bar menu lavishes loving descriptions on each oyster, gilding the basics, like where they are from, with size, flavor, and even how it was cultivated and harvested. Take, for example, the luscious Fat Dog—the menu notes its deep cup and points to the fact that it is deep-water cultured. Such descriptions make it easy for a first-time oyster taster to take the plunge while a focus on small produc- ers means expert slurpers will find something exciting to try. Morello often takes quick road trips to see his supplier, Taylor Lob- ster Company, in Kittery, Maine, and to scoop up shellfish on the same day they are harvested—a rare treat, given most oysters are usually out of the water for days before being served. Taylor is popular with high-end restaurants, and ships to top establishments in New York and beyond. Morello helms the new shucking station, which features small- production oysters. Executive chef Michael Sherman, who has worked with Morello for eight years, has embraced the new concept without compromising his flair for the judicious use of high- tech kitchen techniques. The mix of small plates and entrée portions takes familiar items, like lobster and steak, and brings them in a new direction, with subtle nods to more challenging cuisine. The menu, formerly focused on French bistro favorites like foie gras and char- cuterie, now offers a modern spin