Northshore magazine showcases the best that the North Shore of Boston, MA has to offer.
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32 | NOVEMBER 2015 nshoremag.com CONTACT Elm Square Oyster Co. 2 Elm Sq. Andover 978-470-2228 elmsquareoysterco.com on classic New England fare, from Maine lobster to local pork. The cold lobster appetizer, for ex- ample, is deceptively simple, served with potato, corn, celery, and saf- fron. Similarly, the Bavette steak is a flavorful cut of meat, crispy seared and served with oyster mushrooms and gem lettuce—basic but deeply flavored. It's on the five-course chef 's tasting menu, a terrific balance of lighter bites with more substantial tastes, where the dance between humble and haute really shines. On a recent visit, a simple dish of grilled zucchini proved a fascinat- ing contrast of flavors and textures, with a dusting of caramelized yogurt powder reminiscent of brown but- ter, dots of a sweet yogurt gel, and a topping of crunchy fried quinoa bits. The result was harmonious, delicious, and inviting. A dish called Rice Cracker featured smoked salmon, trout roe, and fennel. It was crispy, creamy, crunchy, and salty— in a word, divine. As the seasons change, Morello expects to feature some game dishes, and perhaps bring back foie gras and charcuterie—two very popular items from the old menu, while keeping the emphasis on regional favorites. Local is also the focus of the drink menu, which highlights American craft spirits, like the award-winning V-1 Vodka from Western Massa- chusetts and a 28-bottle selection of American bourbons. One of the most popular drinks at the busy bar is the St. Paul, named for Paul Kozub, the maker of V-1 Vodka; it combines his grapefruit vodka with elderflower liquor, tonic water, and a splash of fresh grapefruit juice. Another favorite is the refreshing Cucumber Gimlet, made with Bully Boy gin from Boston, cucumber, lime, and prosec- co. The wine list focuses almost ex- clusively on American makers, with a few international favorites held over from the Brasserie 28 days. Desserts change frequently, but the restaurant is still making ice cream in-house—the bourbon vanilla is rich, flavorful, and a very grown-up way to end a meal. For something more substantial—a gently poached ripe peach with raspberries and a tart lemon cake can't be beat. Appetizers Oysters price varies Entreés Bavette Steak $29 Tasting menu $58 Dessert Poached Summer Peach Melba $9 THE MENU Clockwise, head chef Michael Sherman, grilled zucchini, rice cracker and salmon, exterior in downtown Andover