February '16

For the Business of Apparel Decorating

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2 0 1 6 F E B R U A R Y P R I N T W E A R || 61 many variations) in relation to embroidery. Run/Manual—A run or manual stitch is often called a walking stitch. To create, the machine simply forms a stitch and then travels to the next spot to form a line. The difference between a run and a manual stitch is that a run stitch has pre- determined stitch lengths, while a manual stitch only places stitches where instruct- ed. The recommended minimum stitch length for this type of stitch is 1mm and the maximum recommendation is 5mm. The optimal minimum for a run stitch is 1.5mm–2.0mm. Satin/Column Stitch—A satin or col- umn stitch has two needle inputs side by side to form a column. This repeating back and forth motion is used for many differ- ent elements within embroidery such as text and borders around fills. The recommend- ed minimum length for a satin stitch is 1mm, while the recommended maximum is 9mm. It is possible for a satin stitch to fall outside of the recommended ranges but great caution should be exercised. If a satin stitch falls below 1mm, the needle penetra- tion points will be closer together, and they will ultimately reach a point where they are so close to one another that the needle on one side of the column will share the same fibers of the garment as the other side. This will cut the fabric rather than place the stitching. It is important to remember that the diameter of a standard 75/11 needle is .75mm. Alternatively, the longer a satin stitch becomes, the easier it will be for the stitch to snag and fray when it comes into contact with any objects. Fill Stitch—A fill stitch is a series of run stitches that travel in rows to fill large areas with thread. A fill stitch is a very important part of embroidery, but often gets over-

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