Pasadena Magazine is the bi-monthly magazine of Pasadena and its surrounding areas – the diverse, historically rich and culturally vibrant region that includes Glendale, the Eastside of Los Angeles and the San Gabriel Valley all the way to Claremont.
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Romancing the Rails Travel consultant Catherine Addé found herself on the journey of a lifetime aboard the legendary Orient Express. STORY BY // CATHERINE ADDÉ IMAGES COURTESY OF // VENICE SIMPLON-ORIENT-EXPRESS ∫ UNPACKING MY SUITCASE ON THE BED, I PULLED OUT SEVERAL SOUVENIRS FROM MY LATEST JAUNT INCLUDING A DRESSING GOWN AND SLIPPERS EMBLAZONED WITH THE STYLIZED LOGO "VSOE." SINKING ONTO THE BED, I SHUT MY EYES, CONJURING UP THE TRIP AND SAVORING MEMORIES IN A SLIDE SHOW OF IMAGES FLICKERING LIKE MOVIE SCENES. WHILE RESEARCHING THIS TRIP, I soaked up the glossy photographs in the travel literature, but nothing prepared me to be swept away by the sheer luxury, opulence and romantic atmosphere of this rail journey aboard the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. I love trains, so on this trip I thought it would be fun to embark fi rst on an overnight train (on Halloween!) from Paris' Bercy Station to Venice, Italy, where the Orient Express would depart a few days later. The atmosphere on the night train seemed to have an air of otherworldliness: The lights fl ickered and the electricity went out during dinner, my fork poised midair as I froze, not wanting to drop anything. A couple of jovial Spaniards beamed at me, whizzed past the dining car wearing their 'Dia de los Muertos' costumes, jostling past others who were swaying in time with the train's motion. The following morning, our train crept along as we chugged into Santa Lucia Station, arriving at 8 a.m. There is something magical about arriving into Venice by rail instead of airplane—the glimmer of water from the canals and the incredible light and sky beckon (Canaletto knew a good thing when he saw fi t to paint big Venetian landscapes!). A young lady holding a sign with my name on it greeted me, collected my luggage and together we boarded a water taxi to the hotel. My Orient Express package included two nights in Venice at the Bauer Il Palazzo, a boutique hotel. The Palazzo is owned by a countess whose specialty is interior design, and also had a hand in crafting unique toiletries made with organic herbs from her garden. Bauer Il Palazzo is aptly described: "Sitting on the Grand Canal, is the quintessential Venetian fantasy." It would be an ideal honeymoon spot, seemingly decorated for love—the silk wallpa- per in my bedroom suite a rich rose color and on the ceiling a painting, trompe-l'oeil style, reminiscent of the Medici era. After touring Venice, we (a group of six) excitedly boarded one of the most iconic trains in the world, the fabled Orient Express. Though originally built in the 1880s, the Venice to Paris sector of this service hit their zenith during the 1920s and '30s, but by the 1950s air travel increased, decreasing the demand for luxury trains as well as ocean liner voyages. Thankfully, the rail cars themselves have been fully restored to their former glory with royal blue paint and gold lettering gleaming. At Santa Lucia, it was no wonder that curious onlookers swarmed about the station craning their necks for a peep in the windows of the sleeper and parlor cars. A smiling Frenchman in a crisp bellhop uniform and cap handed me a glass of champagne in a crystal fl ute. He escorted me down the corridor, its wood paneled walls highly polished, proudly pointing out the amenities of my private compartment. It was cozy with bunk beds, although one could book two interconnecting cabins for more room. During the day, the cabin is made up as a sitting room and at night for sleep, with comfy mattress, crisp Frette linens and warm duvet, dimmed lights with robe and slippers handy. The cabins are also equipped with a wash basin closeted behind a wood panel, which reveals beautifully packaged toiletries adorned with the VSOE logo. However, true to its 'old world European' design, the lavatories are at the end of each sleeping car, i.e., down the hall (I was glad to see they thoughtfully provided dressing gown as luggage was stored in another car, and I had a fear of bumping into a fellow traveler in the hallway in my nightie in case I had to make a night time visit.). The train left Santa Lucia at 11 a.m. in time for an early luncheon in the plush dining car. Lavish cuisine, prepared by French chefs CAPTION. FEBRUARY 2016 35 the ESCAPES & GET AWAYS escapes_Feb16.indd 35 1/20/16 2:24 PM