For the Business of Apparel Decorating
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98 || P R I N T W E A R M A Y 2 0 1 6 A good quality rayon thread can with- stand high temperatures of wash water; from 140 degrees F for a normal house- hold wash to 203 degrees F for heavily soiled items, as long as detergents contain no bleaching agents, peroxide, or optical brighteners. If there is any chance that your customer is apt to use bleach, or sell to someone who does, you will be safe by embroidering with a good quality polyes- ter thread. The popularity of the worn look of denim would also dictate polyes- ter for embellishment, since polyester embroidery thread is safe for stone washing. This process—which not only breaks down the fibers with large stones, but also the color with added bleach—results in the worn, soft and comfortable look that we associate with jeans. VERSATILITY When it comes to versatility and the ability to problem solve, both ray- on and polyester offer enough choices to border on confusion. Again, both offer weights that make it possible to produce extremely small details and lettering. Finer 60-weight thread is a problem solver when it comes to including incredible detail, shading, or small readable letters in badges and logos, and it is available in both rayon and polyester. It is also a good choice when embroidering on fine, delicate fabrics. Think through to your end product when deciding between the two. Beyond its 60 weight for small embroi- dery, rayon is also available in a 30 weight, which was designed to improve the time and cost of producing embroidered items with lots of fill. Since it is thicker, the 30 weight requires less density, and therefore less stitches and less thread, to fill up space in a design. Commercial embroiderers who run multiple machine heads often turn to this thicker thread for some cost cutting, since it will require some 20 per- cent less thread to complete. Rayon is also available in a very thick 12 weight for decorative stitches and embroi- dering on heavyweight fabrics. For incred- ibly small detail, there is a polyester on the market that is a 75 weight. Fairly new to the industry, this super fine thread is also used for filigree work and to attach sequins. Another option on the market is a 100 percent polyester matte finish thread, which is highly colorfast in commercial laundering and when exposed to sunlight for prolonged lengths of time. The matte finish is appealing to quilters, who like the soft look of cotton combined with the strength and durability of polyester. Also, for tone-on-tone, or where a subtle appearance is desired, a matte finish poly- ester is a good choice. EASE OF OPERATION Although you will hear embroiderers tell you that polyester is the stronger of the two threads, the runnability of both is going to come down to your machine and your knowledge of running it. Polyester's low elongation is said to eliminate looping and puckering. The lower the elongation of the thread, the less critical the timing and the more accurate the individual stitches. Rayon's tensile strength is known world- wide, making it the choice of interna- tional designers. Considered the most flexible of embroidery threads due to its softness and pliability, rayon can be stitched out in any direction and will lie flat in the most intricate of designs. It too will run flawlessly and without thread breaks when a good quality thread is chosen. Less abrasive than polyester thread, rayon is softer against skin and gentle on the working parts of your embroidery machine. EFFECT ON MACHINES Considering that your most costly expense is the embroidery machines that will run the thread, what kind of effect will each have on your equipment? For that answer, we turned to technician Bill Garvin, the president of his own BG Tech Services in Tampa, Fla., who is often invited to share his knowledge at trade shows and in trade publications. "As for wear and tear on a machine, as a technician I do not see more or less damage from polyester verses rayon thread. Howev- er, the poly will wear a needle a little faster than rayon. Keep in mind that it is never the tip of a needle that wears out, it's always the eye. Either thread will eventually cut a groove in the top of the eye, causing the RAYON vs. POLYESTER THREAD Embroiderer Rich Medcraft chose rayon thread for his "outdoorsy" Survivor badge. (Image courtesy Stitchwise Embroidery Design) The popularity of the worn look of denim would also dictate polyes- ter for embellishment, since polyester embroidery thread When it comes to versatility and the ability to problem solve, both ray- Rayon's tensile strength is known world wide, making it the choice of interna tional designers. Considered the most flexible of embroidery threads due to its softness thread, rayon is softer against skin and gentle on the working parts of your embroidery machine.