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A MAJESTIC Coastline In Northwest Florida, lights are softer and cities are smaller and friendlier. The attractions are as often natural as they are artificial and the beaches, golf courses, shopping areas, hotels, cultural amenities and restaurants aren't quite as crowded as some of the state's larger urban areas. This is the one part of Florida where you'll still hear plenty of "ya'lls." BY STEVE WINSTON N O R T H W E S T F LO R I D A