Sign & Digital Graphics


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2 0 1 7 • WRAPS • 69 stays under 10% stretch, which is a good goal for an installer. Plus, if it stays under 10% stretch it means no post heating at the end of the day. A double win of time and quality savings. Shooting for the Corners For mirrors, door handles and bumpers the key is to use the technique of shooting for the corners or "making a bed." By doing this it creates 100 percent glass first before even a single squee- gee stroke has been applied. Traditionally, the idea is to do these areas in stages starting from a hinge and working in overlapping squeegee strokes. However, as the wrap film works around the compound curve, tension naturally builds wherever the film stops, which immediately creates adhesive lines. The trick is to allow the technology of today's air egress and repositionable features to work for you. By releasing the entire liner, lightly tacking the wrap film in position, then pulling with the triangle technique and minimal heat, 100 percent glass can be achieved. Once the wrap film is in place the last step is to squeegee. No air bubbles will occur due to air egress and repositionable technology and, most importantly, no adhesive lines. For the minor tweaks, they are for adhesive lines occur is around raised objects and bubbles. For raised objects, if the material bridges any of these areas for even 5-10 seconds an adhesive line will set up. The trick is to not allow the film to bridge around these areas. To do this, the keys are to make very precise relief cuts so the main base of wrap film almost lays flat around the raised object and to work quickly when the material happens to bridge an area. Masking tape comes in very handy for allowing the film to slide off a main object quickly to the main surface, which helps avoid those adhesive lines. Push the Bubbles For bubbles, the key is to push the bubble flat immediately as soon as one appears. Back in the day, bubbles could be left until that section, like a hood, was completely done. Today, if the installer waits until the end to flatten a bubble, a very clear adhesive line of that bubble will remain. One thing to note is that an installer should not only flatten the bubble right away but keep it as low and flat as possible. Making a bubble smaller and tighter actually makes the situation worse. This creates more tension on the edges, which will almost always create an adhesive line and make it hard to avoid bunching or wrinkles. With the bubble, wide and flat, use a thumb to press right in the middle of the bubble. This keeps the edges soft and lets the air egress technology absorb all the air. Faster Installs, Fewer Adhesive Lines If you have been wrapping in the traditional way this may seem like a lot of work or too different from the norm. Yet, once these new approaches are made part of a routine, they keep adhesive lines away and lower install times. By embracing and trusting the tech- nology of the adhesive—air egress and repositionable—it allows installers to avoid the shadow of other changes in the adhesive. Somehow ironic and at the same time fitting. Once the film is taut and even like glass, use the palm of your hand (with wrap glove, of course), to begin working the film, starting with the recess points. The trick is not to work in stages to the deepest part, but go to deepest point first. No air bubbles will occur due to air egress and repositionable technology and, most importantly, no adhesive lines.

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