September '17

For the Business of Apparel Decorating

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2 0 1 7 S E P T E M B E R P R I N T W E A R || 27 The garment: If the garment being sewn is extremely thick or stiff, it can lead to thread breaks. In addition, if it's hooped improperly, "flagging" can occur during sewing, which will lead to thread breaks. The embroidery design: The design is common to all components of the machine. If thread breaks are occurring in the same areas of a design on each successive run, then it's probably a design problem. On the other hand, a design that is tightly packed with stitches may have random thread breaks throughout the entire design. COMMON CAUSES The next step is to identify each of the potential sources of thread breaks and identify characteristics that will help eliminate or identify it as a problem. The following are the most common culprits of thread breaks. Improper hook timing: Improper bobbin hook timing gets blamed for a lot of things, but it's rarely the culprit. If thread breaks are frequently occurring on all needles of a sewing head, and the design can be ruled out as the problem, then the timing or some component of the bobbin will be the most likely cause. If the thread breaks on a couple of needles, bobbin hook timing is probably not an issue since each needle on the head is dependent on the same bobbin hook relationship for sewing. Improper needle depth: This is a more likely cause if frequent thread breaks are occurring on just some of the needles. If the needle depth is incorrect, it will affect the relationship between the specific needle and the bobbin much the same as if the bobbin hook timing was incorrect. Defective thread: Most people would never suspect that a cone of thread could be defective. However, like anything else that is manu- factured, it can certainly happen. Defective needle: If you feel a needle could be causing thread breaks, simply replace it with a fresh needle. Be sure that it is inserted properly per your manufacturer's instructions. If the needle is not properly installed, it can affect the timing. Upper thread path problems: Occasionally, the upper thread comes out of the proper thread path. Trace the path and make sure the thread is following the correct path from cone to needle. Lower thread path problems: Start with the bobbin and verify Above: Start looking at the bobbin and verify that it is installed properly and feeding correctly. Right: If your thread is fraying, it may be that the substrate is too thick or stiff, causing rubbing against the needle plate.

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