September '17

For the Business of Apparel Decorating

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2 0 1 7 S E P T E M B E R P R I N T W E A R || 55 looks and uses. These are a few of the most common stitches. • Satin stitch: This continuous, lustrous stitch around the outside of the piece, turns corners nicely. Use satin on de- tails wider than 1/2" and designs larger than 3.5". Satins should be 5–6mm (1/2–3/16). Density should be 60–65 spi using 40-weight thread. The kerf (the distance from outside edge of the appliqué piece to outside edge of stitch column) should be 30 percent of the total stitch width. • Zigzag: This lower density stitch runs to the column end and starts again at the edge of the next segment, over- lapping corners, creating welcome reinforcement. Used with athletic apparel and uniforms, it can have 70 percent fewer stitches than satin stitching. Sew- ing is faster and allows for detailed shapes as small as 1/2". It should be 2–4 mm wide. Use a narrower width for smaller designs. Density should be 12–18 stitches per inch. The kerf should be 10 percent of the total stitch width and thread should match the appliqué to avoid a sawtooth look. On mesh jerseys, use tackle twill with tearaway backing and a zig zag stitch as a satin will be apt to fall through the holes. • Blanket and E-stitch: These stitches work well on non-wovens and fabrics that don't fray. An E-stitch is charm- ing and effective on children's clothing and creates an old-fashioned look on household goods. The edge is decora- tive and utilitarian, using a minimum of stitches. • Running or straight stitch: This cost- conscious stitch is recommended for non-wovens. However, wovens are now being finished with just a running stitch, creating raw-edge appliqué. There is a spray stabilizer available to stiffen the appliqué pieces dur- ing stitching. This spray washes out, leaving the edges to fray. DIGITIZING HINTS If you are going to take the time to appliqué, spend the stitches you do use in imaginative ways. If there is room for creativity, why not dare to be different? Remember, when planning the digitizing, appliqué fabric and any satin stitch will nev- er reflect light the same way. The surfaces are different, and stitches often run in dif- ferent directions. The appliqué fabric may This is an example of reverse appliqué using white poly twill sublimat- ed with a photo taken from the restaurant's dock. (Image courtesy Tom Farr, Buzzard Bay Embroidery) Cutting in the hoop can be dif- ficult, but curved scissors make the job easier. (Image courtesy Helen Hart Momsen)

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