Printwear

May '18

For the Business of Apparel Decorating

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24 || P R I N T W E A R M A Y 2 0 1 8 and techniques, custom digitizing, reworking, or editing ele- ments meant for these non-standard threads. Even with standard sizes, specialty threads like breakage-prone metallics or glow in the dark filaments may require editing for designs to run without complication. . The importance of underlay. The stitching you see is only part of what it takes to achieve clean embroidery. Under visible stitches are stitched structures doing everything from marrying garment to stabilizer to reinforcing the edges of elements to helping hide the garment or existing layers of embroidery. This unseen stitch- ing, called underlay, is critical to finish quality and can't be easily seen by studying finished samples. You'll have to learn the dif- ferent underlay structures to support combinations of materials, colors, and stitch types properly. will lose their quality, look strange, or run poorly if scaled much from the original intended size. . Materials make a difference. Materials should be treated dif- ferently in digitizing with thick or textured materials requiring vastly different settings and even added elements to achieve the same design created for lighter materials. Everything from color to relative stretch to the direction of the grain can affect the type and direction of stitches you use. Some specialty garments, like finished caps, even require elements to stitch in a different order than flat garments. Moreover, there will be variables in the size of elements and the density will differ for thicker and thinner threads. Should you want to refine small text or detailed designs by using thin threads or emulate handmade or vintage work by using wooly threads for texture, you'll have to learn new values ERICH'S EMBELLISHMENTS Translating this basic design into embroidery-ready vector art took two compound elements in the source vector and became 79 individually drawn shapes, complete with specialty un- derlay treatments. Special elements and stitch types may be required for certain applications to stitch cleanly, like the light mesh fill used here to tame the pile of a cut- loop golf towel. A vector piece often looks like the print, and the aim is often to get as close as possible to the finished art as presented. In embroidery, it's often the case that embroidery can only be judged on its execution in thread.

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