Printwear

May '18

For the Business of Apparel Decorating

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2 0 1 8 M A Y P R I N T W E A R || 57 ceries. The bag itself is nearly the same as a stabilizer material. As such, a 1.5-oz. tear- away was used to stabilize the bag for hoop- ing, but the bag was hooped off-center so that the design would appear at the top. DECONSTRUCTION There are times when either the placement of the design or the nature of the bag will suggest that opening the sides of the tote will make hooping easier. For example, this Blue Delphinium design on page 55 is placed near the bottom of the bag, so near the seam that opening the long flat sides of the bag made it possible to hoop properly and securely. After embroidering the design, the sides are simply restitched and a serger can be used on the raw ends of the fabric. To take it a step further, the Love design on the tote seen at the top of page 55 pres- ents two challenges. For one, it is made of a loose straw weave lined with a thin white material that has an inside pocket on the side. The design is centered, so hooping was not a problem, but in order to keep the lining from being stitched to the bag, we opened up the lining, so that it was not trapped by the embroidery stitches. Since the woven material has a distinct rise and fall to the weave, a water-soluble topping was used in order to elevate the stitches and keep the design crisp and not lose any of its detail. While it is worth noting that using a sta- bilizer, even on the relatively stable tote bag, is always recommended and the type used is fairly consistent. As a good rule of thumb, no matter the substrate, use tearaway on sturdy woven fabrics and cutaway on less stable knits and light woven fabrics. Every quality embroidery supplier should be able to provide a sample book of stabilizers, al- lowing you to touch and feel, rip and tear, in order to help you decide which will give you the best results. Hopefully, with its relatively straightfor- ward approach and high mark-up poten- tial, these examples and tips will have more sales in the bag for you.

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