Northshore Magazine

Northshore September 18

Northshore magazine showcases the best that the North Shore of Boston, MA has to offer.

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NORTHSHOREMAG.COM 16 SEPTEMBER 2018 Few places around here have any wines from Austria—maybe a crisp Grüner Velt- liner to pair with oysters, but not much else. So it's a delightful surprise when Nimi Idnani, proprietor of Raleigh Wine Bar in Portsmouth, suggests Hillinger Secco Rosé, a sparking pink wine from Burgenland, Austria, to start a recent meal. With delicate bubbles, hints of strawberry, and an ever-so-slightly off-dry finish, the pinot noir–based sparkler is fun, festive, and unexpected, and one of several Austrian wines on the list. It's also the perfect pairing for the poached hen egg, a miracle of appearance and tastes and textures that sits in the menu's snacks section yet demands complete focus. In this simple dish, chef Jeremy Glover, who helmed Ceia Kitchen + Bar in Newburyport before heading north, takes a simple hen egg / E AT+ D R I N K / and elevates it to an exercise in mindfulness. A gently cooked egg yolk kissed with maple syrup, and topped with an airy sherry mous- seline and trout roe, it's intensely rich yet somehow light, sweet, and savory, with little pops of salt from the roe. Even the tiny spoon alongside the egg demands attention—weighty, with a comfort- able curve, it just feels good in your hand. at's no accident; Idnani spent a lot of time selecting all the serveware. She even tried out 15 different water glasses before settling on the squat, heavy, luxe ones that adorn the tables in the small, bright space. Floor-to- ceiling windows let in the light and take full advantage of the view of Memorial Bridge a stone's throw away. e same careful attention has been given to the wine list. Idnani, who is currently THE MENU Snacks and starters: Poached Hen Egg, Roasted Summer Squash with Sticky Almond Sauce, Poached Lobster Tart Entrée: Fluke Desserts change nightly Clockwise, Roasted summer squash, poached hen egg, and proprietor Nimi Idnani

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