Northshore magazine showcases the best that the North Shore of Boston, MA has to offer.
Issue link: https://read.uberflip.com/i/1024592
NORTHSHOREMAG.COM 18 SEPTEMBER 2018 completing diploma work with the prestig- ious Wine Spirits Education Trust, is focused on "natural" wines—often small-production bottles from growers who minimize inter- ventions. Identifying these types of gems is particularly tricky in New Hampshire, which is known for restrictive approvals for wine sales, but Idnani is tireless. Because of this fascination, Idnani offers more than 20 wines by the glass, and a gently priced bottle list as well, at Raleigh, which was named for the USS Raleigh, a Revolutionary War battleship built and launched within sight of the wine bar. e extensive by-the-glass list is especially fun to pair with Glover's menu, which is heavy on small plates, broken into Snacks, Greens + Vegetables, Seafood, and En- trees. Idnani is happy to offer a guided pairing, with recommendations for each course. e menu changes frequently, based on seasonality. A recent meal featured roasted / E AT+ D R I N K / summer squash, served in big charred chunks on a bed of sticky almond sauce, which brought a welcome heartiness to the dish. Glover also has a sure hand with seafood, as displayed in a recent offering of a poached lobster tart—a generous portion of gently cooked crustacean, tender and sweet was lightly dressed with smoked butter and served in a whole wheat pastry crust flaked with nori, yielding an earthy counterbalance to the rich lobster. e expert handling of fish showed in an entrée of fluke, again perfectly cooked and served with preserved lemon. For the fall, expect a showcase of whole animal butchery, as the restaurant takes delivery of half a cow from a farm in Vermont. Definitely save room for dessert—Glover makes them in-house. At the height of strawberry season, one dessert featured the berries four ways—dehydrated, macerated, in a jam, and in a syrup served on a slice of angel food cake. Another offering was a generous portion of dark chocolate cake, which was served alongside a dense, creamy peanut butter cremeaux, lightened by whipped crème fraîche. Sophisticated ice cream flavors might include a cherry-lavender straciatella or burnt honey sassafras. One hopes that those ice cream flavors might one day be available to purchase in the attached shop, where wine drinkers can pick up many of the bottles available in the restaurant—including several offerings from Austria—to try pairing at home. CONTACT 67 State St., Portsmouth, 603-427-8459, raleighwinebar.com OWNER Nimi Idnani CHEF Jeremy Glover Clockwise, Chef Jeremy Glover; floor-to- ceiling windows fill the small space with light; sea scallops and zucchini.