Rink

May/June 2007

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5) Make sure your white base is sealed in very well. This will eliminate any white bleeding through the logos during installation. 6) Bring your logos out onto the ice surface lay flat and allow them to cool down to the ice temperature. 7) Place your logos in the appropriate location. Be very careful not to step on the logos while they are on the ice surface. They will be very slippery and will create a slip and fall hazard. 8) Check and follow the manufacturer's directions from here. Some instruct you to wet the logo from the top side of the logo, and others want you to wet the ice surface first and set the logo onto the wet ice. 9) Add some TSP (Tri Sodium Phosphate) to the water you are using to put down the logo and then slide the logo back and forth on the ice before allowing to freeze in. The TSP will react with the water and remove some of the air trapped in the water and help keep air pockets from forming below and around the logo. 10) Use a thick paint roller to try to remove some of the air trapped below and around the logo. Once the logo is tacked into place it is a good idea to check your measurements again to make sure the logo is straight and in the exact location desired. If the logo needs to be moved at this time, just lift it up and re- position in the correct location and tack back into place. Once it is frozen in, it will be more difficult to move. When the logo is in the desired location and tacked down it is time to start building ice over the logo. It is a slow process to correctly build ice, whether over paint or any in-ice logo. The ice needs to be built up in very thin layers to produce a high-quality, dense, ice surface. While building ice over the logo it is common to use a two-gallon weed sprayer with a misting nozzle so you can mist the logo lightly. Be careful not to put too much water down as this will have two negative effects. Too much water may warm up the white base and allow it to move or become gray. Even worse, too much water will introduce air pockets into your ice over the logo, creating a poor surface. When skates hit an air pocket, the skate blade will easily go through the ice and could possibly come in contact with the logo, creating a trip hazard. Ice depths are critical! The ORFA/STAR Alliance recommends that a minimum of one inch of ice be maintained over any logos and ice markings. If for any reason you are not able to maintain at least one inch of ice over these in-ice logos, then you should consider another type of installation. If your ice resurfacer drivers are already shaving out the goal creases, then you run the risk of getting these logos tangled up in the ice resurfacer augers. Not only can that damage the resurfacer but it will be a trip hazard for all of the skaters on the ice surface. Plus, you will have wasted the money to purchase these logos because they will certainly be damaged or destroyed if caught up in the machine's augers. • Manufacturer's directions • Measuring tape • Two-gallon plastic weed sprayer with nozzle • Thick paint roller with long handle attachment • Something to hold logo flat on ice surface. Pucks will work. • TSP (Tri Sodium Phosphate) • Scissors 48 R INK MAGAZ INE May/June 2007 It is a slow process to correctly build ice, whether over paint or any in-ice logo. The ice needs to be built up in very thin layers to produce a high-quality, dense, ice surface. rink issues Tools Required for Installing In-Ice Logos

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