Northshore Magazine

Food: Fall Recipes Apples, known widely across the world for their role in religion and mythology, are often considered the founding fruit of the United States. Whether baked in a pie or tucked in to a gooey grilled cheese, the adage "An apple a day keeps the doctor away" is as much a part of American culture as is baseball. And when it comes time for Halloween and Thanksgiving, pumpkins take center table, with a flavor and aroma so symbolic of autumn that they appear in everything from coffee to candles. Both of these fruits (yes, pumpkin is a fruit!) are abundant during the New England change in seasons, as cool nights replace warm days and leaves transform to brilliant shades of red, orange, and gold. At their peak in September and October, apples and pumpkins are also the fruit of Smolak Farms's labor. A typical fall weekend at this North Andover farm draws up to 5,000 people to fill their own baskets, hop on a hayride, and stock up on cider donuts. The farm is so busy that owner Michael Smolak has to keep the door of his 1927 house locked, as overzealous visitors sometimes find their way right in to his living room. It's all worth it, he says of "watching families with children come out to the farm and see the absolute delight on their faces when they see where food really comes from." Smolak has lived on the farm for 61 years—"not yet my whole life!" he jokes. His Polish grandparents started farming the land, sections of which are 300 years old, and various members of the family still live on part of the 160 acres, most of which is preservation land. Education is a big part of the farm, which hosts thousands of school kids on field trips with the goal of learning about agriculture, including a chance to pick their own apples—a first for many. The farm is planted with 25 acres of apples, mostly Cortland and McIntosh, with a few dedicated to an antique orchard that preserves varieties no longer grown for commercial harvest, like Cox's Orange Pippin, which dates back to 1832, and Lady—a French variety from the 1600s, also known as Pomme d'Api. Smolak and his sister, Eileen Mauck, started the farm's bakery in 1985 as a way to use up extra apples. Eileen developed all the recipes, from pies to muffins to Smolak Farms' famous apple cider donuts. The bakery— once the only one in North Andover—sold 140,000 donuts last year. There was also another, more historical use for excess apples: Smolak recalls how his grandmother always kept a few barrels of cider in the basement over the winter. During pumpkin season, the patch is filled with families searching through over 30 different varieties (Orange Smoothie and Honey Bear, to name two) planted across 10 acres, which equates to about 25,000 pounds sold per year. Smolak himself loves pumpkin pie and advises that sugar pumpkins make the best pies. Another tip? Those cute, tiny ones the kids love— they're actually Japanese squash, which taste great baked with butter and syrup. Every weekend in September and October is Fall Festival at Smolak Farms, which includes a Great Pumpkin Day and a Halloween-themed trick-or-treat celebration. Kids delight in visiting animals like llamas and peafowl, watching duck races, and romping in the playground, among other special activities. As fall winds down, the Christmas trees begin sprouting for the holidays—but nothing compares to bushels of apples and piles of pumpkins, the quintessential signs of a favorite New England season. 172 NSSepOct_2013_FE_Recipes.indd 172 PUMPKIN GINGERSNAP AND PECAN PIE From Buttermilk Baking Company, Newburyport 10-in. pie shell, homemade or store bought 15 oz. fresh pumpkin, roasted and puréed, or canned pumpkin purée 3 eggs 3/4 c. granulated sugar 1/4 c. light brown sugar, packed 3/4 tsp. ground cinnamon 1/2 tsp. ground ginger 1/2 tsp. salt 3/4 c. heavy cream 1/2 c. evaporated milk 3/4 c. pecans, toasted and chopped 1 c. homemade or store-bought gingersnap cookies, chopped Pinch ground cloves Shape pie crust as desired, chill in refrigerator. Preheat oven to 325°F. In a medium-size mixing bowl, whisk together pumpkin and eggs. Whisk in both sugars, spices, and salt until combined. Stir in cream and evaporated milk, set aside. In a separate bowl, toss together pecans and cookies. Remove pie shell from refrigerator; pour cookie mixture into bottom of pie shell, pressing slightly into the crust, slightly. Slowly pour pumpkin pie filling over cookies and pecans, making sure to coat each piece. Bake for 30-40 minutes or until filling is set and knife inserted into the center comes out clean. Allow to cool for 2 hours. Refrigerate until ready to serve or serve at room temperature. If desired, top pie with freshly whipped cream, spiked with a splash of bourbon. photograph by glenn scott 7/26/13 12:39 PM

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