Northshore Magazine

Northshore December 2018

Northshore magazine showcases the best that the North Shore of Boston, MA has to offer.

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NORTHSHOREMAG.COM 22 DECEMBER 2018 ese days, people spend a lot of time thinking about where their carrots come from and how they're grown. And their apples and eggs and even beef. But have you ever thought about where your wheat comes from? It's a plant grown on a farm, just like a carrot, and has been a staple of daily life for generations. BETTER BAGELS One Mighty Mill brings carbs into the local food movement. By Jeanne O'Brien Coffey and ground beef were farmed, the rolls were something of a mystery. e bread was locally baked, but the flour was hard to nail down. "We literally knew nothing about the farm supporting that baker," Olinto says. And once he started exploring, he didn't like what he found: Commercially available wheat is mostly grown in the Midwest, with heavy use of pesticides and more concern for shelf life than for nutritional composition. "If you learn what the process is, you will instantly understand the way wheat has been industrialized," Olinto says, explaining that these days, mills separate the starchy "endosperm"—the fluffy white part that contains gluten—from the fiber-rich bran and the vitamin- and mineral-packed germ so that flour can sit on store shelves indefinitely. Even items billed as "whole wheat" and "whole grain" are often reconstituted with additives after the fact, rather than coming from the / E AT+ D R I N K / PHOTOGRAPHS BY ELISE SINAGRA Jon Olinto, co-founder of One Mighty Mill, a new bakery and flour mill in Lynn, has been thinking about wheat a lot lately. Back in 2004, Olinto was one of the founders of the Boston- based B. GOOD farm-to-table burger chain, which is rooted in sourcing seasonally and locally. He says that while he could tell you exactly where the fast-casual chain's potatoes One Mighty Mill sources local ingredients.

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