Northshore Magazine

July 2015

Northshore magazine showcases the best that the North Shore of Boston, MA has to offer.

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131 Kagoshima Japanese Wagyu beef, an unparalleled new creation from another close friend, Eric Brandt of Brandt Natural Beef. "This is the next level of Wagyu," Himmel explains. "It's premiering at Grill 23 this week. Get ready to start seeing it on the best menus all over." He's not exaggerating: The stuff has the velvety texture and richness of pork belly, but a deep and bright flavor that could only be produced by the healthiest of cows. "Eric Brandt and I joke that we need to start a cow spa," laughs Himmel. Tonight, they'll plate it with the aforementioned kale salad and roasted potatoes. But before that, the group decides to take a quick detour. Geraty, having finished prepping the day-boat scallops (which were caught in Chatham yesterday and were still in the shells as of last night), dresses them with a dash of grapefruit, olive oil, Marblehead sea salt, and fennel fronds, and then turns his carving skills on the beef. He's cutting it almost carpaccio-thin and serving it raw on crusty toast slices. These are the kinds of ingredi- ents that Himmel is obsessed with discovering or "hypersourcing," as he calls it, and spotlighting at all three of his restaurants. He personally and frequently visits the purveyors who carry specialty items, learns everything about their methods, and, more often than not, becomes good friends with them. That's why tonight's charcuterie board is loaded up with cured meats from his pals Herb and Kathy Eckhouse of La Quercia. A dream team of his favorite local cheeses and a homemade tomato jam— from a Post 390 chef's mother—also make the spread. It's why the gigan- tic slices of creamy coconut layer cake made by Grill 23's pastry chef, Molly Hanson, will be served with a mango, passion fruit, basil, and ginger sorbet that was conceived by Himmel and Post 390's pastry chef, Craig Williams. Finally, it's time to sit down to the table, among fragrant bouquets of lilies—arranged by Beverly florist and family friend Doris Leonhard— and revel in the results of every- one's hard work. (Not that they haven't been eating while cooking all along!) "That's the best part of everyone having a part in the meal," observes Himmel. "Making everything together becomes a big part of the fun, and it makes sitting together that much better."

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