Northshore magazine showcases the best that the North Shore of Boston, MA has to offer.
Issue link: http://read.uberflip.com/i/1292368
NORTHSHOREMAG.COM 42 OCTOBER 2020 L I V E + P L AY Twenty-twenty has been a year like none other, which means this year's fall getaway options aren't exactly classic leaf- peeping road trips. With ever-changing restrictions on overnighting in some neighboring states, it's worth trading the crackle of leaves for the crackle of a fireplace and the crash of waves on a North Shore escape. Whether you choose to kick back with a good book and your significant other, or bring the family along for some fun, there are plenty of seaside spots to chase away the work- from-home blues. PLUM ISLAND: B LU E — I N N O N T H E B E AC H Aquamarine has always been the hue of choice for Lark Hotels design director Rachel Reider, so the 13 guestrooms and cottages at this aptly named boutique property couldn't be a more perfect palette. The vibe is all modern cottage minus pedestrian seaside kitsch; cream and sand walls get extra splash with just the perfect pop of seaglass-colored accents. But perhaps what's most memorable isn't visual—the sound of the morning tide coming in along the main building's private beach- front serves as nature's alarm clock. The day starts with breakfast in bed, when a collection of savory and sweet bites are delivered with a blissfully steaming pot of coffee. Delivery is contactless, as it is with many of the restau- rants from nearby Newburyport that deliver to this intimate enclave. That city is just 5 miles but a world away, and while bundling up in a sweater for a stroll there sounds tempting, the Adirondack chairs, fireplaces and waffle-knit robes at Blue may ultimately win out for those seeking the ultimate in relaxation. Other travelers up for a little adventure may enjoy one of Lark's signature Instagram scavenger hunts, which introduce local landmarks and highlights like Bob Lobster, Parker River National Wildlife Refuge, and Chococoa Baking Company. While Chococoa's fall whoopie pie flavors (including apple cider with cinnamon cream, and pumpkin with ginger cream cheese filling) are worth a trip alone, it's best to save room for another sweet treat. Lark gives tasty prizes to those who complete the hunt checklist, along with the opportunity to win a free stay. Anyone who's been to Blue will already be dreaming of their next time. blueinn.com Beauport Hotel offers luxurious accommodations on the water. PHOTOGRAPHS, TOP TO BOTTOM BY RARE BRICK, BY PETER VANDERWARKER SALEM: T H E M E R C H A N T There's no place more appropriate for masks than Salem in October, but this year offers more elbow room than ever before. "There are definitely tourists, but with numbers reduced, this is really the year of the local," says Kate Fox, executive director of Destination Salem. Schooner cruises at 50 percent capacity are among the many activities still running, although their boisterous intent differs from the exploits of one of the city's most intriguing residents: wealthy 18th-century sea merchant Joshua Ward. His stately former residence in the heart of the central historic district once hosted George Washington, and today the three-story Federal- style brick house has been transformed into a chic boutique hotel that pays homage to Ward's livelihood. Much of the original woodwork has been restored, and fanciful "floating" staircases from noted architect Samuel McIntire take guests to their rooms. Along with spacious common areas, each is beautifully embellished with jewel tones, lush textiles, and Asian accents befitting a titan of the seas. Salem museums are open (most have timed- ticket sales) and the city's contributions to Indian Ocean trade are chronicled at Peabody Essex Museum, just a five-minute walk from Merchant. Fox is also excited about a new exhibit there featuring original documents from the Salem Witch Trials. "A lot of people have been waiting 30 years for that experience," she says. Art lovers can explore further on historic Derby Street, where Artists' Row has recently switched the lineup of which studio/shops are in residence. As Ward's biggest imports were pepper and rum, it would be fitting for Merchant guests to check out Salem's haute dining and cocktail scene, too. More than 50 restaurants have outdoor dining, with new boardwalks and barricades until at least November. The city's investment in outdoor heaters should help stretch Salem's signature season, says Fox. themerchantsalem.com GLOUCESTER: B E AU P O RT H OT E L Fall may add a nip in the air, but deep into autumn it's a balmy 86 degrees high atop Beauport—in the heated swimming pool, that is. The hotel rooftop is just as much a Cinderella story as the formerly working- class city itself, with daytime chants of Marco-Polo from the younger guests; come nighttime, the scene is much spicier, with an adult beverage menu that warms the Merchant Hotel in Salem offers the charm of a historic inn with modern furnishings.