Northshore magazine showcases the best that the North Shore of Boston, MA has to offer.
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NORTHSHOREMAG.COM 18 JUNE + JULY 2018 contrasts the restaurant's monosyllabic moni- ker. e menu is extensive without becoming overwhelming, and uniquely crafted after extensive testing and tweaking by the chefs and owners. It echoes the multicultural world of Kuala Lumpur, where Kenny Foo grew up, a crossroads where cuisines collide and mingle. If your inclination is to stray off the beaten path, you could start by flipping the Chinese menu over to the Japanese side. ere, a solid assortment of sushi and sashimi is headlined by inventive creations by sushi chef Young Wu You. You might begin your adventure with the pepper tuna and complement it with sips of warm sake. Despite its unassuming name, this is edible artwork—deep plum-red tuna is rolled in cracked pepper, seared just enough to enhance the flavor and barely warm the inte- rior, sliced thin, and arrayed on a bamboo leaf canted against a cocktail glass of ponzu sauce. e soy, citrus, seaweed, and rice wine in the sauce are the pitch-perfect accompaniment to the buttery, peppery tuna. A nest of glassy rice noodles lit from below by a tiny LED bulb adds a lighthearted visual touch to the whole yummy affair. e maguro awase is another excellent starting point. is beautifully plated salad combines sushi-grade tuna with ripe avocado / E AT+ D R I N K / and seaweed, accented by tempura flakes for a touch of crunch and topped with a sprinkling of flying fish roe. Subtly spicy, this starter is as delicious as it is lovely to look at. Back on the Chinese face of the menu, you might go with a house specialty such as the Jade's style shrimp, giant butterflied shrimp stylishly posed on a bed of baby bok choy and finished with a light and garlicky sauce. Feel- ing more adventurous? e Mala spicy pot is a rich and satisfying Sichuan-style mélange; the combination variant incorporates meats, seafood, exotic mushrooms, cauliflower, and even potatoes. e spectrum of flavors—spicy, smoky, flowery, sweet, peppery—has been tempered and tuned by the chef for serious heat without offense. Even that staple of modern-day speedy lunches, ramen noodles, is given an unexpect- ed twist. Jade offers it Hong Kong style, not as a soup but as a savory mound of al dente noodles, meat, and vegetables almost reminis- cent of pad ai. Saving some of the best for last, you could finish with the green tea tiramisu, an exotic slice of heaven accented with chocolate strip- ing and dollops of whipped cream. e guava mango flute is a lighter but equally delicious way to finish a food adventure. For drinks, you have your pick from pages of Asian-style cocktails and exotic concoc- tions by partner and mixologist Jackie Zhang, as well as an array of beers, including nine on draft, and a modest wine list. Or you can savor an assortment of teas, including jasmine, rose, and chrysanthemum. For a culinary excursion into the best of both worlds—modern and traditional, Chinese and Japanese —Jade restaurant in North Ando- ver is highly recommended. CONTACT Jade Restaurant, 24 High St., North Andover, 978-655-7220, jadenorthandover.com Green tea tiramisu (left) and pepper tuna