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www.cheersonline.com 51 March/April 2017 • mix as Chicago's definitely a beer town too. But Brady is also impressed with the level of knowledge and interest in drinks in the younger set. "I am still pleasantly surprised at how educated and mature some of our guests are, when they show proof of age and then immediately order a premium rye Old Fashioned," he notes. "It is a big difference from the con- versation I would have with my bar patrons 20 years ago." VOL. 39 Housed in the Kimpton Gray Hotel in the former New York Life Insurance building that dates back to 1894, this luxe lounge was inspired by a trove of vintage encyclope- dias discovered during renovations. The volumes now line shelves surrounding the refined space, which opened in August 2016. With leather sofas, coffered ceilings and the structure's original Georgia gray marble, Vo. 39 conveys an elegant atmosphere. "I like to say Vol. 39 is like a well-tailored suit, meticulously detailed but in a way that makes it appear ef- fortless," says head bartender Jess Lambert. "I want people to be swept up in the old grandeur of a vintage grand hotel lobby bar...for a touch of accessible opulence." Lambert's cocktail menu was stirred by thoughts of drinks that late-19th-century guests might have ordered. Classic sips are juxtaposed and elevated with rare ingre- dients or unexpected spirits, modern originals are playful and cheeky. And all of them invite guests to relax and sink it all in. "It's big and bold flavors in delicate, crystal glassware; it is also delicate and nuanced," Lambert says. Take the best-selling drink, the Calvados Old Fashioned ($12), which eschews traditional whiskey for delicate ap- ple brandy from Normandy, stirred with cardamom and Bittercube cherry bark vanilla bitters, and garnished with orange peel. For more indulgence, the Vol. 39 Vintage Old Fashioned ($35) stirs 30-year-old vintage Armagnac with barrel-aged demerara sugar and Angostura and orange bitters, served over hand-carved ice with an orange swath. Lambert's research into the drinking habits of the late 1950s and early 1960s Mad Men-era led to a flight of six mini Martinis ($25) served in vintage cordial glasses. Variations on the theme included a True, Astoria, Gibson, Dirty, Tuxedo and Suit & Tie. The effect is striking, and the manageable tasting por- tion sizes don't pack too potent a punch. After all, Lambert points out, the three-Martini lunch ubiquitous back then was followed by a sofa in the office and an afternoon to sleep it off. The focus of the wine list is Old World, with some eclectic selections including Priorat and dry Alsatian riesling that pair with the small plates menu's charcuterie, oysters and five types of caviar. Of Chicago's burgeoning bar scene, Lambert says "it's creative, loud, unique and has integrity. It's starting to catch on, and I'm very proud to be a part of it." Kelly Magyarics, DWS, is a wine, spirits and lifestyle writer, and wine educator, in the Washington, D.C. area. SCENE The Calvados Old Fashioned, made with the delicate apple brandy from Normandy, stirred with cardamom and Bittercube cherry bark vanilla bitters, and garnished with orange peel, is Vol 39's best-selling drink. Vol 39 in Kimpton's Gray Hotel was inspired by a trove of vintage encyclopedias discovered during renovations; the volumes now line shelves of the cocktail lounge. A flight of six mini Martinis ($25) at Vol 39 is served in vintage cordial glasses. PHOTO COURTESY OF DAVID SZYMANSKI PHOTO COURTESY OF MARCIN CYMMER